Monday, September 21, 2009

The chase for local bread, cute little kids & Pahalgam

It’s the eve of Eid today in the Valley. Since the morning we’ve been crossing small bakeries, vendors and shops selling goodies, meats and most importantly for me local bread. Rushing to our destination, Khanabal for lunch with an old friend of Dad’s after a delayed start this morning (post a delightful breakfast) we’d been putting off stopping for quite a while. After lunch we got caught in driving onto Pahalgam, meeting people, sight seeing (more on that to follow).

So its only now at 1945 in the evening, that I, FINALLY, commandeered Dad’s car and drove into Pahalgam town to procure some bread. My guide led me to the perfect little bakery off the main road in a small lane. Like a young kid in a toy shop I picked out macaroons, local hard bread shaped like little rocks, some sweet bread & biscuits. I hate it that my descriptions are so vague. Very frustratingly, my guide insisted on paying & talking the local language and negotiating. Very well meaning but I missed out on exchanging pleasantries, getting to know the quaint old man & the young grandson like figure running the shop and the whole experience. I can feel myself frown as I write this. Grrr... the guide was so well meaning that I did not have the heart cut him short and do this myself.

The day has been mildly frustrating. We left Sonmarg early this morning to go to Pahalgam via Manasbal late. The drive to Manasbal was beautiful in most parts but struggled to reach standards set by earlier drives. As soon as we reached Manasbal we were redirected to a new route and refused access to the entry point we were to go to. I don’t know why. As soon we reached this side entrance we were hounded by 3 very vella Kashmiri youth out to make a quick buck. They insisted we go to some temple nearby invoking every possible blessing we might need. I just wanted to tell them I did not need to go to a temple to pray. Letting that pass, I took the wheel to Anantnag and got the wrong side of dusty roads, trucks and aggressive kashmiri cab drivers and the honking. It was very disconcerting as I was just not expecting it and was quite happy keeping my peace with an easy drive without aggression.

Meeting Hanish chachu in Khanabal was a treat. It’s good to meet old friends along new destinations and find them happy and well settled. Dad took the wheel from here to Pahalgam and took away the best part of the drive! No traffic, no dust and no honking.

I found Pahalgam achingly beautiful – achingly so because we found a well meaning bunch of colleagues to take us around but with BORING & RANDOM conversation! I just wanted to get away and explore this place on my own. It is so so beautiful on it own. I sat in the car going around Chandanwari, Betab Valley cringing inside and just wanting to be left alone to explore.
Anyway.. all’s well that end well. I have my bread now & we’re sitting down to a lavish dinner sometime soon. I might have preferred a nice quiet dinner alone / with Dad followed by a good coffee. But well tomorrow is a new day and promises to bring something good.

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