I was back in Bangalore after three years I think. The new airport is striking not because it’s efficient but because the people and public transport support teams are heart warming-ly polite. The public transport is 3 years ahead of rest of India as Dan said. 60 minutes from the airport to the city centre, uniformed chauffer for a driver, quiet air conditioned bus, great people to talk to – it was love at first sight.
- Dinner #1: Bangalore is an incredible place to eat out. Off the bus, big group hug with Dan and Sam done, we tumbled into Coconut Grove off Church Street for Appam, Crabs and Fish Fry. A pitcher of Kingfisher to wash it down helped. It also sparked an idea in Sam’s head. She realized that Dan was the “Appam of her Eye”.
The 2330 shut down meant that we had to keep our party instinct in check (stop sniggering the ones who know me) but we caught an absolutely pleasant walk down Church Street and MG Road and managed to polish off a chocolate sundae between us before catching an auto home.
- Breakfast #1: I don’t know why holidays make me so hungry. The beautiful drive to Mysore only whetted this appetite and the Kamat Restaurant by the road was like the Messiah bringing deliverance to his people. (Pardon this completely ungainly way of introducing my fascinating and hilarious holiday read: Lamb, The Gospel according to Biff, Christ’s Childhood Pal by Christopher Moore). Back to the food – I don’t know how I got up from the breakfast buffet and made it to the car. I know Dan walked it off by searching for Sam and me, while we stood right in front of the sweet shop contemplating the sweets with hungry eyes but buying a bottle of water instead.
- How I got distracted from food: Before we had lunch we paid ode to Tipu Sultan’s summer palace at Seringapatinum. We also stopped by the amazing Philomena’s Church on the way ahead though the crypt had me freaked out. Quite unlike my memory from St Paul’s in London where I remember spending some of my most peaceful hours ever. The Mysore Palace which came into service as a house for the Kings of Mysore in 1912 is perhaps one of the best maintained palaces in India. It helps that it is not 400 or 4000 years old. From the elaborate woodwork, to the exquisite stained glass windows and ceilings, the cannons and the carved gates, the palace is opulent and colourful without being garish and a very pleasant testament to the luxury of kings. Always a history student at heart, I thoroughly enjoyed the audio guide and it’s little nuggets of information.- Lunch#1: one would have thought I’d be a little careful after breakfast not so long ago the same day. To my defense – thali’s are hard to resist especially when it a hearty south Indian one that packs in Kesari Bhath to finish off the meal. Only the fact that we were headed to the zoo right after lunch kept me from passing out on the table or in the car. - Zoo!: It helps Dan and Sam are from the US. I got to revisit an old joke. There are no animals in the wild in the US. I find it very hard to imagine for a country so big! And speak to any American about it and you’ll find that at some point they’ll be like... “yeah.. we ate them all up!” That said they do have bears and deer in the wild. Snigger. For this Tiger loving Indian that is another joke. Anyhow before I offend the Americans...
The zoo was awesome. I was reminded how the human form is ungainly and clumsy compared to the sleek animals. Also, the peace and calm around the animals is completely seductive. I wish I was so chilled out. While the range of birds was stunning (Military Macaw from South America, pelicans, white peahens, eagles etc) I was the most impressed by the Gaur. After a lifetime of seeing pansy looking cows all over India the heft that the Gaur packs is quite a surprise. In perspective, I think it makes me believe that my sun sign actually packs a punch which is why I like it so much. Otherwise till now I thought the bull as a symbol was ok but could have been cooler. Of course the roaring Tiger, the Giraffes, alligators and the turtles were all very impressive, calming, insipid and hilarious in that order.
- Devaraj Market: I always wondered where National Geographic and it’s ilk got those photos of India with flower markets and heaps of colour and dye. I’d never seen any across my travels - I know now!
Devaraj market exports flowers, garlands, fruit, vegetables, incense, ironware across the states neighbouring Karnataka. I’d forgotten what it is to be like in a mad, by lane ridden, seemingly chaotic but actually clearly organized Indian Baazar. Though I abashedly felt like a tourist it was an experience I’d never swap for hours in a mall.
As it began pouring a little harder we headed out to grab filter coffee and a quick break from the walking and ended up sampling more than a little of the Mysore Pak and Milk cake while at it.
- Mysore Palace Redux: If it’s gorgeous on the daytime the Mysore Palace is bewitching in the evening. Not unlike the London Eye fireworks at New Years when they turn on the rows of lights that garland the palace exterior at 1900 hours a collective gasp goes out from the surrounding crowd. The hush inspired by sheer beauty.
- The drive back: Wine and conversations to end the day, more fish and neer dosa at Fishland and driving on rainswept roads made for 1 am return to Bangalore and a good night’s sleep. I confess I dreamt of more food. It’s true. - Sunday & Closure: holiday and party Saturdays are the best. You have another day of relaxing to follow. By the time I hit up my sweetheart (the Bangalore airport bus) to go back to Delhi we’d managed great coffee and sandwiches for late breakfast, chocolate mousse cake, a superb walk around 80 feet road & MG Road and a beer at Hard Rock Cafe. Bangalore has always helped me make some wonderful memories. I was lucky to be with Dan and Sam there this year. With Gaboli expanding it’s office in the city I am happy to know I will be back soon- I was super lucky to catch family in Bangalore too. The young kids make me feel old! I came back to Delhi to the annual family Rakhi get-together and got to me all my cousin Mamus all at once and meet new relatives who I had not chatted with before. We have an Everest Base Camper in the brood already – hopefully there will be another one soon ;)- Complete Disclosure: I flew to Bangalore without a toothbrush. And I came back 48 hours later without having brushed. Gross? Not really. I was helped by Colgate Wisp – wonder of wonders. Travel / mini toothbrushes that I discovered thanks to Sam. Pretty cool stuff. And yes, I came back and brushed first thing – relax!
