I am going Everest & Annapurna Base Camp

I know it is close to five months away but I have committed a small fortune to make the trek to Everest and Annapurna Base camps in April 2011.

It is a small fortune because I have committed 40 days from Gaboli to go away into the mountains to do something I have wanted to since I did my basic course at NIM, Uttarkashi in 2008. And I have been reminded of my dream everytime I made the flight to Calcutta on work. Do you know when you fly from New Delhi to Calcutta, 20-25 mins into the flight (just beyond Lucknow I believe) onto your left you can see the Everest massif? (Yes, I've received many a quizzical looks from the Indigo chaps when I request to be seated on the left window seat.) And everytime I have seen Nuptse, Lohtse and Everest pushing into the sky, like a quiet prayer, I have felt the urge to be get closer.

When I was planning my trip people often said Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) was a prettier trail. A friend who did ABC in 2009 and EBC in 2010 says ABC was tougher to get to because of the sheer number of steps but Everest far more stunning because of the sheer glory of the tall Everest massif. Of course I want to do both. 

As I gear up, work on fitness training (the fitter you are more you enjoy the experience) and read up, I realize how this is becoming a pilgrimage for me. In a good way. I know I am blessed to be doing this relatively early in life. I know I'll want to do Kanchenjunga Base Camp, I know I am, somewhere in my mind, raring to actually climb an eight thousander in my life but this trek for me represents a time where I believe I can go away from work and Delhi and figure out a part of my life so important to me outside of my work and city bound life. 

I love the mountains. My mother is fond of telling a story where in a Kindergarten class when played a audio clip, while the rest of the class identified the rumble as a motorcycle, young Tarun Varma piped up and said "avalanche!". I grew up in the mountains in Himachal, Shillong, Wellington and Kashmir. My father trained and climbed them with his Army teams as a part of his tenure at the High Altitude Warfare School. With his old ice axe up on the living room wall, I always wondered what he found in the mountains that kept him so far away from home and his family. When I left the mountains and moved to Secunderabad and then onto Delhi-Pune-Bangalore I felt the tug of the mountains and trekked a little. However, as work got more intense and I began to travel I realized a mountain stream, slightly overcast morning and the prospect of a long walk in slightly too cold weather brought a smile to my face. I also found the silence heart warming.

I went back; climbing in Sept 2009 with my Dad's team in Ladakh and summitted Machoi. It was a tough and technical climb. I wondered how I made it when I did. I'd lost a major love around the same time but I was beginning to find one that could susbstitute for her just a little! They both made me a little weak-in-the-knees (albeit in different ways!) but gave me a peace that I'd always wanted. And only on top I realized my first summit was also the one my father had first summitted when he kicked off his climbing. In some little way, I knew then why climbing Everest was so intensely spiritual for Jamling Norgay. And I knew for sure I would always keep coming back to the mountains. 

I missed the climb to Stok Kangri earlier this year due to an avalanche warning and I knew I had to make up for it. I am very glad to be doing EBC & ABC with Intrepid. Introduced to me by my Mt Kailash climbing spirited pal, Reshma, Interpid does these treks (amongst others) round the year with only 14 people per trek. I hope this trek will mix me with fellow mountain lovers from across the world. Maybe one of these friendships will lead to trekking and climbing in Europe, New Zealand, America and Antarctica one day. Otherwise, I am happy to dissolve myself into a multitude of people as we explore the Himalayas together.

I am also curious about the work of the American Himalayan Foundation in the region. Since I read the brilliantly edited set of essays in Himalaya, by members of the foundation, I have been curious if I can, in any way turn my love for the mountains into something concrete and helpful. We shall discover in due course! :) 

Wish me luck as I prep for the trek and hope the gods smile and I get a clear view of both the massifs as I trek to their base camps. I hope I manage to do a series / diary on my trek.

And oh - Happy Childrens Day! Stay young!

Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie

Friends, Appams, Filter Coffee, Palaces and the Zoo: Namma Bengaluru

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To live in a city where the ambient temperature is 23 degrees is a pleasure that a Delhi man knows when he descends from the plane at Bengaluru Airport. I’ll be quick to admit that this was a recurring theme during my weekend at Bangalore but it’s heartfelt. It helps that I have fantastic memories of Bangalore.

I was back in Bangalore after three years I think. The new airport is striking not because it’s efficient but because the people and public transport support teams are heart warming-ly polite. The public transport is 3 years ahead of rest of India as Dan said. 60 minutes from the airport to the city centre, uniformed chauffer for a driver, quiet air conditioned bus, great people to talk to – it was love at first sight.

-    Dinner #1: Bangalore is an incredible place to eat out. Off the bus, big group hug with Dan and Sam done, we tumbled into Coconut Grove off Church Street for Appam, Crabs and Fish Fry. A pitcher of Kingfisher to wash it down helped. It also sparked an idea in Sam’s head. She realized that Dan was the “Appam of her Eye”.

The 2330 shut down meant that we had to keep our party instinct in check (stop sniggering the ones who know me) but we caught an absolutely pleasant walk down Church Street and MG Road and managed to polish off a chocolate sundae between us before catching an auto home.

-    Breakfast #1: I don’t know why holidays make me so hungry. The beautiful drive to Mysore only whetted this appetite and the Kamat Restaurant by the road was like the Messiah bringing deliverance to his people. (Pardon this completely ungainly way of introducing my fascinating and hilarious holiday read: Lamb, The Gospel according to Biff, Christ’s Childhood Pal by Christopher Moore). Back to the food – I don’t know how I got up from the breakfast buffet and made it to the car. I know Dan walked it off by searching for Sam and me, while we stood right in front of the sweet shop contemplating the sweets with hungry eyes but buying a bottle of water instead.

-    How I got distracted from food: Before we had lunch we paid ode to Tipu Sultan’s summer palace at Seringapatinum. We also stopped by the amazing Philomena’s Church on the way ahead though the crypt had me freaked out. Quite unlike my memory from St Paul’s in London where I remember spending some of my most peaceful hours ever.

The Mysore Palace which came into service as a house for the Kings of Mysore in 1912 is perhaps one of the best maintained palaces in India. It helps that it is not 400 or 4000 years old. From the elaborate woodwork, to the exquisite stained glass windows and ceilings, the cannons and the carved gates, the palace is opulent and colourful without being garish and a very pleasant testament to the luxury of kings. Always a history student at heart, I thoroughly enjoyed the audio guide and it’s little nuggets of information.
   
-    Lunch#1: one would have thought I’d be a little careful after breakfast not so long ago the same day. To my defense – thali’s are hard to resist especially when it a hearty south Indian one that packs in Kesari Bhath to finish off the meal. Only the fact that we were headed to the zoo right after lunch kept me from passing out on the table or in the car.

-    Zoo!: It helps Dan and Sam are from the US. I got to revisit an old joke. There are no animals in the wild in the US. I find it very hard to imagine for a country so big! And speak to any American about it and you’ll find that at some point they’ll be like... “yeah.. we ate them all up!” That said they do have bears and deer in the wild. Snigger. For this Tiger loving Indian that is another joke. Anyhow before I offend the Americans...

The zoo was awesome. I was reminded how the human form is ungainly and clumsy compared to the sleek animals. Also, the peace and calm around the animals is completely seductive. I wish I was so chilled out. While the range of birds was stunning (Military Macaw from South America, pelicans, white peahens, eagles etc) I was the most impressed by the Gaur. After a lifetime of seeing pansy looking cows all over India the heft that the Gaur packs is quite a surprise. In perspective, I think it makes me believe that my sun sign actually packs a punch which is why I like it so much. Otherwise till now I thought the bull as a symbol was ok but could have been cooler. Of course the roaring Tiger, the Giraffes, alligators and the turtles were all very impressive, calming, insipid and hilarious in that order.

-    Devaraj Market: I always wondered where National Geographic and it’s ilk got those photos of India with flower markets and heaps of colour and dye. I’d never seen any across my travels - I know now!

Devaraj market exports flowers, garlands, fruit, vegetables, incense, ironware across the states neighbouring Karnataka. I’d forgotten what it is to be like in a mad, by lane ridden, seemingly chaotic but actually clearly organized Indian Baazar. Though I abashedly felt like a tourist it was an experience I’d never swap for hours in a mall.

As it began pouring a little harder we headed out to grab filter coffee and a quick break from the walking and ended up sampling more than a little of the Mysore Pak and Milk cake while at it.

-    Mysore Palace Redux: If it’s gorgeous on the daytime the Mysore Palace is bewitching in the evening. Not unlike the London Eye fireworks at New Years when they turn on the rows of lights that garland the palace exterior at 1900 hours a collective gasp goes out from the surrounding crowd. The hush inspired by sheer beauty.

-    The drive back: Wine and conversations to end the day, more fish and neer dosa at Fishland and driving on rainswept roads made for 1 am return to Bangalore and a good night’s sleep. I confess I dreamt of more food. It’s true.

-    Sunday & Closure: holiday and party Saturdays are the best. You have another  day of relaxing to follow. By the time I hit up my sweetheart (the Bangalore airport bus) to go back to Delhi we’d managed great coffee and sandwiches for late breakfast, chocolate mousse cake, a superb walk around 80 feet road & MG Road and a beer at Hard Rock Cafe. Bangalore has always helped me make some wonderful memories. I was lucky to be with Dan and Sam there this year. With Gaboli expanding it’s office in the city I am happy to know I will be back soon

-    I was super lucky to catch family in Bangalore too. The young kids make me feel old! I came back to Delhi to the annual family Rakhi get-together and got to me all my cousin Mamus all at once and meet new relatives who I had not chatted with before. We have an Everest Base Camper in the brood already – hopefully there will be another one soon ;)

-    Complete Disclosure: I flew to Bangalore without a toothbrush. And I came back 48 hours later without having brushed. Gross? Not really. I was helped by Colgate Wisp – wonder of wonders. Travel / mini toothbrushes that I discovered thanks to Sam. Pretty cool stuff. And yes, I came back and brushed first thing – relax!

Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie

Turkey. Kinder Eggs & NOIDA!

I have not posted in a while since I have not travelled in a very long time. It's been a month in Delhi and my Ladakh expedition looks jeopardized... So I am living vicariously through other travels and find joy in smaller things.

Mom and Dad recently came back from Turkey. I am happily richer by a set of Bvlgari after shave lotions, some Nivea body bath lather and a set of other assorted gels. (That coupled with Amit’s gift which was a cologne makes me think I MUST positively stink...). Anyway it’s their description of the cobbled streets of Turkey, walking through the rain, the European influence on living in the western most Asian outpost, the chain smoking, bakery owning Turks and hard working youngsters on the move that captured my imagination. It certainly puts Turkey on the list of countries to visit.

While the parents have been living it up I have been doing multiple rounds of NOIDA in Uttar Pradesh for a deal and actually for a family do that came up. Every trip is a 80+ km round trip so my love for driving notwithstanding the trips in this heat it can get a little gut busting. So imagine my sheer delight in finding a Kinder Egg at one of my refuelling stops last week.

I love Kinder Eggs. I’ve loved them since my grandmother bought some back for me from Hong Kong back in 1999 (yes that’s the last millennium). The whole joy of peeling off the chocolate egg, opening up the plastic shell and finding a toy inside is indescribable. And– they’ve evolved! So the last time I had a Kinder Egg (chucked the white chocolate and got at the toy) was at a fuel pump in Apsley in 2007. Then they were the old school variety described in the link above... now I got one like in the picture attached. Very smooth – the egg comes away in 2 parts. One part has the toy and the other has the chocolate in it. The ‘killer app’ (I have to bow to the jargon used by my industry) is the plastic spoon fastened onto one of the hollow egg shells to eat the chocolate. I do admit the man at the counter gave me the wierd once over – “aren’t you too old to be excited by a kinder egg” but hey it made my day. Twice over.

Work has been tight but the NOIDA seem to be worth it. Time will tell. I shall now get back to my day job and closing this week. It’s been a busy one. Hurrah to Kinder Eggs& Turkish coffee.

Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie

May. Delhi. 26 deg. Spider Weaving web on windscreen

That is all that settles in the head after a 16 hour train journey sinks in the head. And 7 hours in a plane loom ahead in the next 24.

It's been a great revisit to Jamshedpur; repeat of Baskin & Robbins chocolate ice cream, late night walk down Park Street, funny only-in-Jharkand incidents, cold coffee @ Dadu's et al. It's also been a pushed 5 weeks and counting at Gaboli.

More soon. Good luck Karan for your flight back to Tokyo. :)

Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie

Back from the Ski Slopes

I talk about my ski and mountain hols all the time... and as I have just discovered, it gives off the impression that I am permanently on mountain holidays. While that sounds like a delectable way to live (and I’ll get there one day) I’d just like to mention we did close 2 deals in the last 2 months and things are motoring along well at Gaboli.

Gulmarg this time (or actually as always) was glorious. On my 2nd and last trip of this season I knew I had better do all the cross country runs and high gradient slopes while I still could. Being there solo and left to my machinations only made life easier for me. While the snow condition at this time of the year was not the best to ski on (lot of wet snow instead of dry powder) we got a good 6 inches second day into my trip and that helped a lot.
 
I’d done a lot of Nursery, Church & Cherry and Highland Slopes (ref map attached!) in the last 2 trips. I also came down from Gondola phase 1 in Jan 2009. The idea this time was to max the cross country runs down from Gujjar hut and do the champion style ‘beta’ slopes above Khilanmarg & Gujjar Hut. These are the 1.5km plus slopes where you can really race down with the proverbial wind whistling in your ears and cold air that cuts through you. So though it took a couple of days to actually get around to doing it like a champion I think we managed well.

Typical to any skill or sport the harder you work at it the luckier you get and the more you enjoy it. So I think the hours practicing on the cherry and church slopes on day 2 and all the herring bone up the slopes when the snow scooters / ski lifts gave up helped. God made it snow, one was tired enough to minimize energy spend and perfect one's technique coming down and there was a general sense of accomplishment at the end of it all. So... while on the first day the steep gradient on beta shook me up a little as all the technique seemed to desert me when I needed it, by the end of the trip I was racing people down the same slope almost effortlessly. And of course I was completely spoilt by undivided attention from the instructor, groomed slopes and marginal ski traffic.

While the snow condition was not the best to ski on it’s beauty remains undiminished. One could just stand and soak it in for hours on end. At the ski slopes high above camp the views were gorgeous. I’ve never had such clear views of Nanga Parbat, the twin peaks of Nun Kun and Harmukh earlier. This is despite a 4 hours trek in the fall last year up to the Apharwat massif just to get great views!

Having said that, all that skiing also meant really sore arms and calves! If it had not been for the hour long massage on Sunday I don’t think I’d have lasted to day 3 & 4.

Skiing apart it was certainly good to be back for my 4th trip to Gulmarg. The house felt luxuriously familiar and walking around camp there were enough people to wave to, shake hands with and hug. The mountain people always touch your heart. The humility, maturity and sheer peace around them is inspiring. And these are guys who are seriously accomplished – lead the army ski team, have won multiple medals for gallantry, conspicuous bravery and rescue but are completely and disarmingly charming. It always reminds me deeply of who I want to be or what kind of person I want to end up as. And I know I am saner for my mountain trips...

Back in Delhi to a delectable biryani lunch sent in by the neighbours (they’re awesome) polished off with dark chocolate with coffee thanks to the irreplaceable Nandeeta Seth. The love of my life Vidur Chopra is back in town too...

Life’s not too bad eh? Just need to work hard another few months till the next trip comes up!

See the full gallery on posterous

Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie

Annie Oakley

Thanks to a book I read a long time ago which said something to the effect of "... Hunt might not be no Annie Oakley but he'll get the buggers kneecap at xyz yards..." I have always been fascinated by sharp shooters. Good to discover there is another meaning to the word.

Significantly, shooting is also something that I have always had an inherent talent for. The sport appeals to my reclusive side and I am sure one day I am going to hone my skills with a rifle and pistol. I think I would enjoy the intensity of the practice... I also had a sharp shooter bus friend at school who rode with me for 4 months till I switched houses during my initial years in Delhi. Convenient times - I spoke about the books I read and he about target practice. Good mutual learning

This AWAD issue brought a smile to my lips. Not the first time AWAD has done that!

Btw... Gaboli has also been going bang bang bang! Good news around the corner. Ah can feel it in mah veins.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Wordsmith <wsmith@wordsmith.org>
Date: Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 10:44 AM
Subject: A.Word.A.Day--Annie Oakley
To: tvarma@gmail.com

Wordsmith.org

The Magic of Words

Feb 1, 2010

This week's theme
Eponyms

This week's words
Annie Oakley

Annie Oakley

(Source: NYPL)

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A.Word.A.Day

with Anu Garg

You could pay to have a football stadium named after yourself. You might be able to have a hospital wing named in your honor. But there's something money can't buy: having a word coined after your name, so that you become part of the language. Such words are called eponyms, from Greek epi- (after) + -onym (name).

Five people (some from real life, others from fiction) in this week's words achieved that feat, though not intentionally. All of these names have become eponyms.

Annie Oakley

PRONUNCIATION:

(AN-ee OHK-lee)

MEANING:

noun: A complimentary ticket; pass.

ETYMOLOGY:

After Annie Oakley (1860-1926), U.S. markswoman renowned for her skill at shooting, from association of the punched ticket with one of her bullet-riddled targets.

USAGE:

"If you're lucky, you've got an Annie Oakley."
Tom Rouillard; Big Top Goes Up Today; The Herald (Rock Hill, South Carolina); May 1, 1996.

Explore "Annie Oakley" in the Visual Thesaurus.

A THOUGHT FOR TODAY:

The machine has got to be accepted, but it is probably better to accept it rather as one accepts a drug -- that is, grudgingly and suspiciously. Like a drug, the machine is useful, dangerous, and habit-forming. The oftener one surrenders to it the tighter its grip becomes. -George Orwell, novelist (1903-1950)

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Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie

Best kick off to a new year: Skiing!

I’ve added one more stripe to my shoulders for skiing... Just back from a glorious ski holiday. 10 days of snow, ski slopes, soft snow skiing, small treks up and skiing down and blue skies with clear mountain air. Why do I live in Delhi?

2 things stand out in conclusion to the holiday though:

-    You don’t forget skiing. It is for everyone – you just have to ski from the heart.
-    They don’t make people & children with pinker cheeks in India outside Kashmir

Skiing – last year was all about falling about all over and then going on to the challenging slopes for speed and thrills. This year partly due to the lack of snow and thankfully due to a slightly longer trip it was technique focused.  So pole planting, rhythm, dip / parallel turns, slaloms happened. And when your coach concludes, that for fun, you can ski potentially anywhere in the world you know you’re pretty set.

Given that skiing also comes with its routine – prepping for the runs, booting up, carting the skis, packing up and then relaxing by the fire in the evening, its a great break from the hum drum of life. Within this scenario the Gaboli team got some good time together. We missed Amit a lot though.

Personally, with Dad such a lot gets taken care of that you’re free to get out and roam all the time till you’re dead tired. With all the activity there I am back re-focused on doing another expedition later this year and am soon going to start prepping for it.

Pink cheeks! – all of us noticed how pink the average Kashmiri was. At my sisters instance I whipped out my camera at the airport and took these surreptitious pictures of the 2 babies and their pink cheeks. Very very sweet.

It’s been a really packed 72 hours back in Delhi (pleasantly so - I was missing work!) but I know I am going to squeeze in another ski hol this season somehow. Watch this space!!

See the full gallery on posterous

Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie