a dance, a new year and thoughts

I began my new year with a trek to Bhutan. I needed some time off in the mountains thinking, seeking and learning to be able to put my thoughts on the classroom in perspective. And I got that in loads. One on one interaction with the children and all the local people there. Being in the villages and the cities there also made me think about how much happier and peaceful my community back home around the school can be.

However, being back in Delhi brings with it its own pressures. And I sometimes feel my ideas for change are Utopian, need a longer term for gestation and time on my fellowship is ticking and running out faster than I can deal with.

I have been back in school a week - its been cold and intense. Today we (teaching staff) got called to an inauguration of the new school building which was a proverbial show put on for the local powers that be. I have no stand / issue that I want to comment on / bring up. Its just that the juxtaposition with the system, my co-fellow's exhortation to think practically and the reminders of the distance my community needs to traverse makes me wonder what I can do in my second year which approaches fast. 

But there is a silver lining to my thoughts. At the school inauguration twenty girls from class five at a MCD school twenty minutes away came to do a dance show. Decked out in saris and makeup these girls are gorgeous. I walked over to them, spoke to them a little and then walked them into my class. We spoke about the Explorers and they liked me enough to offer putting up a small aerobics performance. Their coordination (I have two left feet), enthusiasm, love - blew me away. And reminded me that deep down, all of us, love being excellent at something. That being true for me, other adults and my kids more than all. At the end of my year I should leave them excellent at something. And that something is probably education / high academic achievement.

Going back to the community - we have a BTCP (be the change project) in the community in year two. I am thinking of opening votes upto five ideas for the children to decide on, ask my principal for a veto / vote and then get to it with the community. Greening the school / a playground / computers are the top 3 ideas I have now. Do you have an opinion or an idea?

The project will take thinking, money and a lot of doing. But the dream is to create this tiny primary school into a happy, welcoming place where wants to go. Where parents feel their kids learn something great, something they help build and are proud of. It might mean many many days spent in the community and lots of disappointment but as always I will turn to you for hope and encouragement :)

And did I tell you? The day I sleep well, I get up early and start my car to make the 25 min drive to school. Usually I'll play loud dance / rock music that thunders in the car. For me its like I am going to war each day to make sure I impart something to my students. Something that is useful and helpful. People ask me why I did not follow my Dad's footsteps in the Army. I think I did. This Army I am a part of will change India. 

Baby, we're in the Army, now. 

Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie

The wannabe hermit’s tryst with the Hermit Kingdom

I spent a marvelous week in Bhutan ushering in my New Year. It's a gorgeous country and I am in love with it for multiple reasons.

For my trip I'll let some pictures do the talking - click here

Yes some parts will get missed out like my fantastic dinner with Phub Gen and Ugyen from Yangphel, making dinner friends with an American opera team performing a classical music opera in Bhutan, lunch with Tandin and his family on the outskirts of Thimpu, the first night on the trek visiting a Bhutanese house and chatting with a llama, visiting a monastery under construction, my talks with Tandin about Buddhism, the visits to monasteries but the pictures are a chance to chronologically go through my holiday .

As I leave Bhutan I realize I’m more at home in the mountains. I focus better and work more efficiently. I have known this for a while so now I wonder what I can take back to the city.

- (I struggled for four months but) Email on the go is a waste of my time. I've said good bye to blackberry services on my smartphone

- Sleep and walk (not sleepwalk – which I last heard of in the Enid Blyton series Malory Towers) more

- Do less email and talk to people more

- Eat bigger meals and play a lot

- Spend more time around my kids back at school learning with them AND stop planning life outside class so hard

Bhutan rang home some experiences and brought to life some stuff I've been thinking about too. Just before I went to Bhutan Geet Sethi spoke to us at Teach for India's Ahmedabad retreat. He said “you cannot have the focus of a monk if you live like a king”. And Zen Habits, the blog I read a lot has been encouraging a year without goals for a while now. Living in the present and giving everything a huge shot. Those might be my guiding principles for the year - live simply and work with out goals.

Here is to 2012!

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Finding food in Thimpu

I swear the only reason I'm sat in a fast food joint in Chang Lam Square, Thimpu is because Baan Thai which was recommended is shut. So is Khamsa Oriental which I walked a few klicks to and I refuse to pay for an over priced meal at the Taj. In any case everyone says the Taj has horrid food.

Its a cold night, it just rained and I'm glad I decided to walk out. Its the first of my two nights in Thimpu and I got to cover a lot of the town on foot. I love being layered well and walking in the cold.

Thimpu is a gorgeous city. Developing fast but not bursting at the seams. Quaint but modernizing well. I was catching up with the world on CNN when an advert for Bhutan flashed. Much of what it said about an erstwhile shut but fast opening up country is so true.

I'm sure I've barely scratched the surface with my two days in Paro, a three day trek and a day yet in Thimpu but here's what I love.

A king who moved with the times and abdicated his thrown to usher in democracy. And its a pretty well planned democracy - there are posters everywhere in Jhongka (the national language) and English encouraging voting and providing info about the elections.

The kids in the cities and the villages are well educated. This is across primary and high school. They speak English well, sing in Jhongka and English, dance, connect things and are refreshingly curious. Maybe the last bit is just my outside the class, one-on-one interaction.

The women (are gorgeous) and everywhere. They own businesses, run shops, work in the fields, build houses and almost always study up to class 12 and often beyond. They have rights to property by tradition and the divorce rate is high but the women are the ones who make the call to leave their husbands. Remarriage is not uncommon in both cities and villages. And this bit just might be the Indian in me speaking but I think its a very powerful statement if you're a developing nation but socially liberal with a high regard for women's rights. (Homosexuality seems repressed yes).

Till now by royal decree they've chosen to preserve their culture smartly. You can build any style of house but doors, windows and roofs should be in Bhutanese tradition. One must wear the national dress when going to the offices or the monastery.

And they're a blissfully happy nation. A lot of what I'd say - people talk to you willingly, offer you a drink, are friendly to foreigners is actually true for India too. But they're incredibly happy with status quo and that's not true for India. Its not Bhutan is not on the move. They are but they're not fussed.

I still have a day to go so I'm going to dig deeper but I've loved being here. Here's to an upcoming walk in the cold back to the room. I've had a huge dinner and I'm going to love the walk hopefully.

PS - I got a rather strong JD with coke cause I thought of Nandeeta and felt good enough to break my non alcohol drive for a hol night. And spoke to an American team who are doing a classical music opera in Bhutan. The Americans were there at lunch too. We bumped into each other again - good to speak this time! Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

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Good karma to Bhutan

I have been very keen to visit Bhutan. A trip in the Oct 2011 Diwali break fell through. Jan 2012 in the school winter vacations seemed the next best idea. It was always going to be a challenge doing a winter trek though. And it is.

Early on in the planning the long treks (7 days+) got cancelled due to snow and cold forecasts. Finally, we selected the Paro to Thimpu, 4n & 5d , Druk Path trek going up to appx 3300 mts. Decent snowfall over the last two days has meant that the Druk trek has been cancelled. I got to know as I was about to leave for the airport this morning.

I'm still going though. There's an alternate route in Central Bhutan that I might do. I will hang onto my flight coming out 11th Jan. I'm excited to go visit, there's not much chance I'll get to go again, there's a lot of good I hear about the country and I'm happy to be in the mountains and the snow. I'm carrying good trekking and winter gear. Things should be fun.

Wish me luck and look forward to pictures!

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trying to shrinkwrap a big year - 2011

2012 kicks off with a super cold – 14 C trek in Bhutan. It’s the only way to start what promises to be a travel-some year. Kenya (hopefully!) with Chandini and the gang in Aug /Sept, Tuscany in October with family and no confirmations yet but looking to head out in the summer to intern during May - July… but here is looking back at what has been a big year.

-          I kicked off 2011with a glorious trip to Assam. A holiday of excesses with huge amounts of food, lots of alcohol, a great dunk in a frigid tributary of the Brahmaputra and long drives in the sun. All that and the elephants and rhinos at Kaziranga really set tone for a big wholesome year.

-          I came back from Assam thrilled to make it to Dad’s Sena Medal investiture at the Army day parade in January. He’d picked up his last presidential medal before I was born and it was a huge honour to be able to make it. I am very proud of my father. I remember him saying he’d never seen me grin so much as on the day when we went to see the ceremony. And indeed, its one of the best memories I will have for a long time. It also happened to be Ma’s birthday and I love it that Chandini was there to share it with us.

-          Dad and I then made the start to the year even more special by getting ringside seats to the Beating the Retreat. I sat there ten paces from Sonia Gandhi and Manmohan Singh marveling at my favourite music from the pipers of the Indian Army and wondering if I’d ever get to a level of excellence that I could play a musical instrument. More than anything else it was a hark back to my days as a child listen to the pipers in the battalion when Dad served with it.

-          With Amit, Nivedita and Chandini I stole a quick getaway to Amritsar in February. Despite the fact that we had to keep the vegetarians in the gang happy the trip was another gastronomic delight ;) Amit and I deepened our bond with an epic couple-like fight. That and the 3 am visit to the golden temple – trip highlights. Not to take away from the Wagah border madness and the search for great mutton around the city. The bus back might have been tiring but we made the most of it.

-          Work took me to Bangalore and Allahabad in Feb and March. Allahabad was special. Ma had spent some years growing up there and I wanted to cross by the AG office where my maternal grandfather had worked. I got to visit the Sangam – where the Ganga and the Yamuna meet.  Nandeeta recommended an old fast food shop she used to frequent as a kid which I could go see. I also made super friends with Venkatesh on the train and thanks to him got to see the city after my meetings for the day were over.

-          Now it seems funny how I managed the time but one of the weekends in Feb I headed back to the village with Dad. I went there after some 22 years and I was moved to my toes seeing my Dad show me around where he grew up for a bit. Epic.

-          Early March I took on another weekend and made it to the Unbox festival. It was a great extension of the journey I was going within to see what else I could do in or outside work to explore my desire to connect with the development side of the world and meet some great people doing awesome work.

-          In April of course I headed out to my trip of the year to bring in the 25^th by going to the Everest base camp and doinga round of the Annapura circuit. I made 11 superb friends on the Everest trip and loved every moment of my time in Nepal. I think there I secretly stowed away a dream to keep coming back to the mountains every year even if I had to beg borrow or steal. I am doing the ‘borrow’ with Bhutan this year. I lived through an IT band strain between the Everest and Annapurna  treks and got a week off in Kathamandu. That was another time of living by the plate. Some brilliant food kept me going through those 7 days of not knowing if I was going to catch the boat to the next trek. And of course I am so thankful for the brilliant medical support by CIWEC and the prompt replies by my travel insurers IHI BUPA.

-          Everest and Annapurna helped me make a clean start after I made one of the toughest career decisions yet. I came back to start my two year Fellowship with Teach for India. I had made the decision to switch out from Gaboli, the company Vineet, Ashok and I started in 2008. For me Assam, Unbox, my work at Gaboli for two years, growing up across the country studying in different schools, having a group of friends who had graduated to start working in education – they were all aligned to nudge me to my current job. But it was a big change still. And I love it.

-          Beautifully Amit, Chandini, Niv and I managed to do an encore to our Amritsar trip when we did a road trip to Kasauli in August. Superb drive, loud music and some great walking in the hills. And a great getaway from the intensity of the first few months of Teach for India.

-          After being cooped up in Delhi for a few months I ran to Mumbai eagerly in November for the Teach for All conference. It was just the perspective I needed to go out of the classroom and try and see how I could be a better teacher. More than that I was just kicked to see how big the global movement for excellent education was looking. I loved being able to stay with family and catch up with my grandmother’s sister and her husband who’ve put a chunk of money into my class expenses too.

Apart from these trips it’s the small things that’s made the year gone past so special. I’ve started playing Frisbee regularly with Dhruva and the gang. It’s a stellar game that I slowly get better at. I love that I am living at home – despite all the madness it gives me sometime with Ma and Dad, times that’s fleeting because I know its not long we’ll have this time together. I’ve found my spot in the ranks of some incredible stalwarts at Teach for India. I’ve always wanted to work with passionate people and the Fellowship is forcing me to look through my life and overhaul things I have wanted to for a while. I started a teaching blog that is one of my biggest outlets in what is a demanding job… its powerful to create something.

I’m grateful for the moments 2011 offered – it feels special that its my 25^th too. I know 2012 offers some continuity with the 40 tiny giants in my classroom who make me think hard everyday but I feel up for the new stuff. A lot of it will be governed by what class throws at me but here’s to living in and enjoying the moments of 2012. 

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A reminder on humility

I have been having a tough week back inside the classroom. Some basics have gone wrong and I have contemplated my drive, my effectiveness in class and how good a teacher I can become. I have tried to fix my work routine, tried new stuff in class and it is falling apart a little bit. I am also just back from a stellar Teach for All conference. One message from there has been that teaching makes you humble. You potentially fail everyday to maximize your time with kids and that teaches one a lot.

Lately I read again that one should surround oneself with passionate people - to discover meaning in your work, to see yourself grow or to be a part of something worth building. 

I was reminded of both of these a few days ago and why they makes so much sense. At Teach for India’s Delhi resource mela (as a part of the HM conference) was on display some stupendous work my co-fellows were putting in, in their classrooms.

These peers remind me just how much people are putting into their work, how they are planning their lives, managing to get their charges very far and make stellar progress. These are people I trained with. 

I am reminded how I came into Teach for India to be a better person. More together, more organized, knowing that I needed rounding off to my aggressive business self, to the I can knock down any wall approach. Through exposure to a very diverse driven bunch of people incredibly passionate about education, through an incredibly warm approach to kids, by seeing people like me who have transitioned from business to teaching or this world, I see hope for myself. I see this is possible. 

I am learning to grow through my failures in the classroom. To remember that one does not always have the solution to very problem. That to look around for solutions is good and help is always as at hand if you know how to ask for it.

And becoming a better person might be one of the most selfish reasons I am here. Though I am reluctant to normally admit it. 

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Really? You're telling me not to come to school?!

I had been, subconsciously, operating at below peak physical activity for the past three weeks. I did not feel like a workout, I was tired at the end of the school day and I was not sleeping well. I / we put it down to the crazy pollen allergies I get at the change of season etc. Things turned slightly worse two days ago... blood tests confirm a mild strain of dengue. Not good. I decided to skip school today. (Infact I missed a day - day-before with chhat pooja as a co-fellow took care of my 8 kids in class). Last night I spent sometime calling parents to say I will not be in but they should send their kids the day after for sure as we have mid year assessments.

True stories:

- Ashraf's father said Ashraf will go because bhaiya comes everyday and he cannot miss school. Workaround - can Ashraf speak to you in the morning because I am away on duty right now. Ashraf did speak to me. He is shy on the phone and aorund other kids. I sat with Ashraf my very second day of school and he could not write the alphabet. I was scared I'd fail to teach him anything / leave him behind. I think he still struggles to study and comprehend me but he did an ascending order question correctly in class yesterday and he sounded very disappointed that I was not in school today. 

- Sanju's father called to say he'd spoken to her but she was crying and saying that her father was lying to her. Bhaiya always comes to school. Could I speak to her and tell her it was alright and I'd be back soon.

- Prabhat, who got a message from Ashraf, called to confirm if I was indeed not coming; then said yes in response. These 'yeses' and 'nos' in English. I will tell you how much pride there is in hearing them

And then there is one line for every parent who I called, who wanted that I eat my meds and get back in class. I'd heard this stuff. I just do not think I deserve it. I am pretty mediocre teacher you know. Look at the Teach for rubric, look at some Teach for India classes and you'll know I have a long way to go.

The thing though is; I am sitting here at home contemplating Unit Plans, lesson plans, a blood test and getting myself some cold coffee. And I know I can plan the next few weeks well, organize word cards for the word families we need to do, sequence the mid year assessment sheets etc etc. But right now all I really want to do is be back in class, give my kids some colouring and watch them smile and laugh. Its going to be a very short life, 50 years, 2500 weekends someone said. And I think I'll look back here on these times thinking I was blessed to be here. 

Its tough love being in class. You have so much to improve for yourself. You have no idea how to teach the kids, you call them names in your head, names outside too - lovingly with an urge that they behave well soon... but they floor you with your antics, their smiles and their unrestrained generosity. You might be dying in class but you're having fun while at it. Someone said that to me about the Fellowship once - I can see it happen now.

This post can be a little self glorifying. Its not meant to be. I just want to capture as rawly as possible about a turning point I sense in my class and myself

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october roundup

A took an evening walk two weeks ago on Friday. There was a nip in the air and you knew the summer was gone. As we step from fall into winter, I can feel the desire to do a wrap up on 2011 like the one in 2009. Its been a busy year and there is a lot that's going to happen before we wrap up.

Between the last trip to Pune, which I recorded on the blog I've managed a get-away to Kasauli without keeping an entry and I've not been able to put up the Annapurna journal either. So I am going to skip over to October and my thoughts right now. I have been writing though but only on my teaching blog: Learning to be a great teacher - http://tarunasateacher.posterous.com 

We celebrated Diwali just two days ago. I've begun counting Diwali's at home since I missed the ones in 2006, 2008. As fireworks are lit and the rest of India turns to celebration my thoughts always turn to family. Of course, I've ended up missing my sister more often than I'd like but hey that's life right. :)

My biggest thinking point this month though stems from a lecture I attended with Thomas Pogge, Rahul Ghandhi and Kaushik Basu at Jawahar Bhavan two weeks ago. To hear a philosopher (Pogge) speak about macro economics (a love despite my poor understanding of it) was brilliant because I see the economics and social outcomes manifest itself in the school and community I work in. 

Prof Pogge shared a convincing argument about how competitive systems drive the economy. The major flaw / the Achilles heel of these systems being - they are prone to influence by sections who want to corner advantages - industry, lobby groups etc. At the same time, national / a section of interests who influence policy come into conflict in a rapidly globalizing word where several such interests become a 'quilt' of global economic policy. 

The thinking point for me was - I thought the Indian path of development and trajectory mirrored America's. We have similar inequalities and certain similar problems. The Economist, in its latest report on India, however,  talks about distinct shades of capitalism and Prof Pogge argues for a representative system coming via India to show the world a slightly better path. I think that is a tall order for an economy faced with inflation and a number or immediate problems but certainly a very good vision draft to start off with. 

A country that seeks to make policy and systems representative of public demand.

How we separate politics and economics though is a longer (and nastier!) question. 

On a wholly different note I was very impressed with Rahul Ghandhi - enough thought went into his address to setup Prof Pogge's speech. He is immaculately well behaved, his references are something I can relate to... I want to get to know more about him. Not something I've ever said about a politician before...

It seems I will manage a visit to Mumbai coming November and one to Ahmedabad end of December. Both on work but I'd love the chance to get out of Delhi. The goal is to ski / trek from 1st -  14th Jan 2012 when I have two weeks off from school. That would be awesome!

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EBC Journal: Day 15, Kathmandu, 2221 hours, 1300 meters

Over the last 36 hours I have had a medical check for the knee done, I know I could be starting Annapurna a week later, that I am in Nepal (Kathmandu) for an additional week and that I have no real plan but there is a lot to do. 

I’ve been to the doctor / physiotherapist today – seems like recovery will be good and i can potentially plan for an 8th May exit from Kathmandu for Annapurna. The knee seems good for recovery if I can practice the exercises and keep on a good routine that keeps it away from any danger of further damage. The tour operator is happy to arrange the delay in departure and hopefully we will have a great view of the mountains. Everyone tells me the Annapurna circuit is prettier, the food better, the weather pleasantly warmer and people nicer. I cannot wait to explore.

It has been an indulgent phase of the holiday. Late nights, drinks, music and sightseeing. While in some sense the body needs to recover from the sheer exhaustion of the trek I am not sure if these party elements have aided the recovery for the cold, fever and the knee. I always have a problem letting my hair down though (!) so I think the parties are good for me!

I should also make a list of things to do in Kathmandu, sort logistics and put up pictures from the trek.

It is also interesting how medical insurance works. I’d never have thought of it if Interpid had not insisted upon it but its now something that is potentially a saviour for my continued trek to Annapurna. 

Tomorrow is going to be a day of saying goodbyes to everyone except Josh and a lot of sorting of logistics. Meanwhile there is some more art on the journal to share!

See the full gallery on Posterous

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EBC Journal: Day 13, Cheplung, 1117 hours, 2685 meters

On our way down to Lukla. Short 3.5 hour trek. Crossing kids going to school, trekkers going up to BC and taking in the village life with a little more peace. Should build a cottage here.

1453 hours, Lukla, 2610 meters

End of trekking for EBC. Nice lunch. Sunny rooms right next to the short Lukla airstrip. Big ledge to dry clothes on. Lost my beloved water bottle. Arrgh. Cannot process. Feel like just sitting and thinking... Sitting at the Starbucks (world's highest Starbucks?*). Just like the world over they have horrible watery coffee. Waste of money. Need to call the DA and arrange a doc’s visit. Torn about Annapurna. Seems like we’re hitting the bar again tonight – ambivalent but want to hang out with the group as much as possible. I'll miss them. 

Note: Day 14, 29th April 2011 was our descent via the teeny airplane from Lukla to Kathmandu. I ended up doing a lot of errands but some pictures will tell a good tale. The night was special with our chulo meal together – I think I even racked up a review on Lonely Planet for the place – a definite first (I had always wondered to date who was free enough to write food reviews – now we know!) 

* I learnt only later that it might not be an original Starbucks franchise but just a store with Starbucks coffee

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Pune - time for an encore!

I return to Pune, where I started my career to make what could be my biggest career switch yet. To make it even more special as Tarini, my sister, pointed out "Come to think of it such a stroke of luck to have begun our 'away from home stints' in the same city and round the same time :)" As she completes one semester at business school it rings true.

There is a memory around every corner where I kicked off and lived solo for the first time. I sit typing in a mall where I remember escaping to meet Tarini for lunch / coffee when I had a killer days at work, the coffee place I brought my girlfriend to is around the bend, so is the place where she stayed... I remember getting happy at T Oaks and trying to find a auto back home late at night. Midnight trips to the railway station to find bun maska, drinking milk from the packet because it was so tasty, great paan...

Things do change though. We came in to Pune via a long route that I did not recognize. There is a LOT of construction happening, the malls are busier, the offices bigger and the cars more in number. Dorabjee's is now a three story supermarket that sells apples as good as the ones anywhere in the world, its probably amongst the best supermarkets I've seen in India. Delhi certainly does not come close - or maybe I don't shop in Delhi for groceries!
I realized in the weeks I am here I will need to snack so I picked up some healthy stuff that Ma or a fitness coach might admire. I might also be a flavored yogurt convert a la Vineet Jawa.

I have been packed away in my room for today rushing to finish my pre training work but the beauty of this place is hard to escape as the photos from the phone should attest. Of course, after Verma Type Instt in Assam earlier this year I found Varma studio in Pune. We're taking over the country I tell you...

I came into the city pensive and wary. Pune has always seemed a little hostile and disturbed my peace slightly. I think it is also because its a place where I have professionally encountered a lot of uncertainties. Even today, I'm hesitant of my switch and I'm sure that's affecting my thoughts. However, I still sense that arrogance in the local paanwala, police chap and auto guy. I don't know when they'll learn to be cheerier or politer or just more relaxed. My charming smile and positive demeanour never rubs off. I don't get it. I am determined though to see the better side of this fast growing, increasingly cheerful and very cosmopolitan town.

But yes, I am still the only one out here in shorts. No one else. No guys at least. And they still give me like a once over, as if I'm nuts. Somethings do not change...

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See the full gallery on Posterous

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EBC Journal: Day 12, 1.5 hours away from Namche, 1129 hours

High suspension bridge spot.

Walking reverse downhill facing upwards. Relieves the pressure on the knee. And helps keeps the sights in sight for a longer second!

Beautiful day. Raced ahead of the gang with the downhill strategy and got some time to myself. Started the morning with a yoga class with Stina. Breakfast not until 8 so got a quiet cappuccino at the Everest bakery and did a quick 10 min of essential email. Had to inform Intrepid and home about the knee and possible next steps. Picked up a pair of yak bells. One for Nani – she wanted a souvenir from this area and one for the room for use as a windchime. Will go well with the flags up there.

There was an astonishingly clear view of Everest on the way down from Namche Bazaar. Better than BC / KP too. Makes me smile and wonder... I can see more of the gang starting to appear at the rest stop. More soon.

2133 hours, Phakding, 2810 meters

3 beers and a glass of wine down. Happy Birthday Kate! Very tired. It is also the effect of low altitude I think. Wishing I could sleep since 1900 hours. Gorgeous trail through the day from Namche – Monjo – Phakding. Remember the stops from the way up, the places we took pictures and some of the suspension bridges. Used the earphones most of the way down to cut out thoughts about the knee. Effective. 

Last day of walking tomorrow for this leg of the trip. And a fresh round of people taking turns to draw in the journal... :)

See the full gallery on Posterous

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EBC Journal: Day 11, Namche Bazar, 2328 hours, 3400 meters

Rum & coke night. Out with the gang post dinner and a well deserved shower. Knee pretty shot. Excruciating day. Grimaced through most of it – cannot think I would have been good company for anyone. It rained for a fair bit too. Added to the gloomy feeling and my worry about the upcoming Annapurna leg. Over compensating with the right leg has meant that I have a slight shin splint and prone to cramping on the thigh and legs. 

Am reminded this trip is meant to be contemplative – just cannot seem to get around to it. Getting through a new experience with a gang of 11 interesting people is demanding in a good way. Its tough to stay aloof. I need to set the knee straight to enjoy the experience I believe. Doing yoga in the morning with Stina to try and set it back on track. 

Turning in and glad to have emailed home earlier this evening. Could not get through to her but Happy Birthday Sheila Aunty – wish you happy travels all through the year and beyond!

The Tengboche monastery was nice and the walk around it great. After that the descent took us through a rhododendron forest – quite pretty. 

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EBC Journal: Day 10, Orsho, 1825 hours, 4100 meters

9 hours of walking. 400 metres sheer ascent and another 1400 lost steadily over 7 hours. Hard to believe its all in a single day’s work. 

We climbed to Kalapathar today. As someone said, you tell the world you went to Everest Base Camp but you climb Kalapathar for yourself. Steep 2 hour climb in the morning snow. Hard on the poor knee and rough on the exposed lips. Great views of distant Ama Dablam, Mera Peak & Thamserku. Pumori and Lingtran looked like you could touch them if you reached out. Brilliant massif right behind KP too. Everest remained shy – I don’t think I have great pictures of the mountain anyway. 

Without meaning any offence, Everest is the rich fat boy in the room who gets the babes but view wise I think I need to do better to see the mountain properly and feel like it is truly higher than the surrounding peaks! 

Killer day coming back down from Kalapathar. The knee threw a fit after the Kalapathar climb. And fever and a bad throat kicked in for added comfort (the bug has been travelling in the group). So much so that pretty much after we spent an hour out of Gorakshep on the way down it seemed like a torture. I had to stop off on the way to adjust the knee to the pain – admire the group for stopping off with me. However, coming down having done EBC and KP makes it worthwhile and the quiet air of resilience within the team makes it so special. 

Since the knee and fever keep me preoccupied I am going to switch to bullets to capture specific thoughts

• Seeing the Khumbu icefall was brilliant. Every-time you look at the blue ice you wonder what the glaciers hide and the stories in time they can tell
• The most beautiful mountains are not necessarily the tallest ones only. Thamserku dominates the Everest trek for a long time. Lingtran has an impressive if unusual feature like a giant snow slide (this seems replicated in part on the peak of Dhaulagiri), Ama Dablam (double humped) is oft cited as one of the prettiest mountains in the world. 
• While mountain land beyond the treeline is starkly beautiful crossing from one stage to the other is special – both leaving and re-entering the treeline
• EBC and KP were good to do but the journey, the bonding with the group, the mountain sights, getting a tan in the sun, squinting at the clear skies, learning about the ITB count for much more. 

Finally, I got a chance to really talk to a portion of the seven member Indian team that was trekking to Everest BC as well. Neha and Amrish live in HK and surprise surprise – they know about the ITB inflammation with Neha’s ITB bothering her a little too. Not the best conversation starter but well, the last 45 minutes walk to Orsho ranged from ITB, Teach for India and work back home. It was pleasant to have a conversation where someone understood your references and you could slip into Hindi if you needed to / felt like it. 

Thats all I can process as of now... Excited we visit the 150 year old Tengboche monastery tomorrow. 

Posted via email from Tarun's Reverie